New Zealand
A land of great beauty that will take your breath away, everywhere you look. From mountain glaciers and fjords to the rainforest and sandy white beaches.
Even in the height of summer (December/January) the roads feel empty, the perfect place for a road trip.
PRACTICAL THINGS
With a long flight, it makes sense to take a longer break, we spent four weeks, mostly in the South Island and should have spent six.
Book well in advance if you are going at peak season (Dec-Feb). We booked 6 months out and found many hotels, trains or ferryie were fully booked.
Bitey Beasties. Are common on parts of the West Coast, especially in the Rain Forest near the glaciers and on Milford Sound. As well as topical spray on exposed skin, think about specialist spray for your clothes. The bites are annoying, but hard to avoid, especially at night.
Levels unlocked: showers at Singapore (expect to queue to rescan bags). Quantas First Lounge in Sydney for salt and pepper squid and great meals.
AUCKLAND
Our arrival destination and a place to acclimatise. We based ourselves in the Central Business District by the harbour, at the Britomart. A bustling area full of restaurants, boutique shops and a short walk to the centre of town and the Ferry terminal.
The city has some steep hills to navigate, which drop down to the shoreline.
Things to do.
Take a bike ride along the coast to Achilles Point
Wander to Viaduct Basin to see the yachts and explore the NZ Americas Cup base.
Stop at one of the many shoreside restaurants for a Osyters and a glass of wine.
Take a Ferry to the North shore, or to an Island
Where to stay
The Hotel Britomart: 29 Galway Street, Auckland Central, NZ 1010 | Website
Modern and contemporary with a great location. The rooms are small, but the shared spaces are lovely, as are the staff.
WAHIKE
Ask a local what you should do in Auckland and one of the first recommendations will be a trip to Wahike Island. We did one better and snagged a reservation at Tantalus, a vineyard with an amazing restaurant attached.
The sun shone, we enjoyed lunch in the beautiful gardens, and sampled some of their wines.
A walk around the vineyard before heading home on the ferry. Highly recommend.
Tantalus: 70-72 Onetangi Rd, Waiheke Island, Auckland | +64 9 372 2625 | website
CHRISTCHURCH
Our next stop was Christchurch and we flew. We discounted the train to Wellington and the overnight Ferry to Picton as there weren’t any cabins left.
Over a decade since the devastating earthquake in 2011 and you can still see the scars on the city, along with new shoots. Many historic buildings lie empty, still waiting for repairs or demolition, their exteriors decorated with street art. Lots that have been demolished have turned to green spaces.
This is an easy city to walk, with big parks, historical areas and new architecture to explore. Or pick up a bike and cycle to the beach to watch the sun set.
Things to do
Visit the historical quarter, and ride the trams
Take a walk in the park and visit the gardens [free]
Head to the riverside market for lunch, or coffee
Take a bike to the beach and watch the sun set.
Explore the street art, or something else
COASTAL PACIFIC
Most of the railways in NZ serve freight, specifically coal and iron ore. In the South Island two tourist services run, one each way, each day from Christchurch.
The first Tranz Alpine heads across the Alps to Greymouth, the second (Coastal Pacific) heads up the coast to Picton. There are no regular ‘commuter’ services.
The New York Times rated the NZ train journeys the fourth best thing to do in their 52 things to do in 2024 article, and for a good reason; the train tracks pass through stunning scenery.
We took the Coastal Pacific to Blenheim to visit the vineyards, then returned from Picton.
Out of Christchurch, the tracks run through rolling hills before hugging the coast for over 100km. Expect to see seals and if you are lucky dolphins and penguins in the surf. As you approach Blenheim the sheer scale of the vineyards becomes apparent, with every square metre planted. The hills return along with signs of life as you reach Picton.
Practical things
There is a luggage van for your luggage. This is very safe
There is an open air car which gives amazing views. It can be cold, so take something warm.
The café has a wide range of offerings, or upgrade to scenic plus for a gourmet experience with matched wines.
There is a commentary at points along the journey.
There are plenty of taxis meeting the train at either end. If, like us you stop at an interim station, you may want to have a local taxi number, or book ahead
You can call the booking office and give a seat preference (with table, coastal side).
Marlborough Vineyards
We could not pass up the chance to stay in the vineyards and spent a night at Hans Herzog in their vineyard cottage. A perfect way to spend an afternoon exploring the vineyards and the wines.
The vineyard is a labour of love for Swiss winemaker Hans. In its fourth decade, Hans grows 28 varietals, many of which have been imported and have gone through a long quarantine process before being planted.
Hans pushes his grapes to maximise the flavour and depth. Each is aged for over 5 years, often longer. If you love character, you will love these wines. We did.
The Pinot Noir had a depth, and velvetiness that you normally find in a Merlot. The Pinot Gris was almost orange from the time spent on the lees.
Breakfast is brought to your cottage by Hans in the morning, with freshly baked bread, croissants, French cheeses and meats. A feast.
Hans Hertzog: 1 Jeffries Road, RD3, Blenheim 7273 Marlborough, +64 3 572 8770 Website
Bay of Many Coves, Marlborough Sound
Dreamier than you can possibly imagine, this ‘resort’ is deep in the Sound, only reachable by boat. The modern ‘lodges’ cling to the steep hillside, surrounded by the rainforest, with a view across the bay. Do as little, or as much as you want to do.
For those feeling energetic you can hike sections of the Queen Charlotte track, hop on the ferry to another cove and walk back or borrow a kayak and explore the many coves.
Feeling less energetic, then curl up in a lounger and read a book, watch the waves lap on the beach, or the fish swimming in the crystal-clear waters.
Expect Steve (Cat Stephens) the cat to say hello, before he finds another sunny spot to snooze in and beware the flightless ‘chickens’ who love to steal your shoes.
Things to know
Book activities in advance (fishing, sailing), give yourself a day of relaxing too.
We stayed two nights, with no plans. If you stay longer, you probably want to add some activities in.
The local walks from the resort are steep, woodland paths, that need walking sticks and boots. The sticks are provided with your lodge.
Dinner is a 5 course degustation menu, which can be overwhelming. It is OK to choose 2, 3 or 4 of the courses. We even chose different ones.
There is an ‘off menu’ including Burgers. Ask nicely and you may get lucky.
If you don’t want the formality of the restaurant, get meals delivered to your Lodge and enjoy on your balcony as the sun sets.
ROAD TRIP
The real reason we came to New Zealand
With few public transport options, if you want to see the South Island, and believe me, you will, you will need to hire a car and take a road trip.
We took a one-way hire car from Christchurch to Queenstown. We gave it 10 days and could easily have extended that longer.
In NZ you drive on the left, like the UK and Japan. Most roads are two carriageway, with slow lanes. Bridges are often just one lane wide and you wait to cross.
It is polite, and frequently adhered to, to pull over if there is a car behind you, to let them pass. Whether you are a truck, an RV or a regular car. There are very few places to pass when the roads are twisty.
Our Route
We headed across the mountains from Christchurch to Punakaki, then a days exploration north up the coast and along the gorge, for a ‘not to be missed’ drive, before heading South on Route 6, the coast road, past glaciers, through rainforests and over coastal plains.
We stopped at the Glacier towns (Franz Joseph/Fox) as there are very few places to spend a night along the route, then pushed down to just outside Wanaka to break the journey to Mount Cook, a must stop location.
Heading South we broke the journey in Queenstown en route to the fjords and a night spent on Milford Sound, before returning to Queenstown for the flight home.
Stops
Christchurch [1 night]
Punakaki [2 nights]
Franz Joseph [2 nights, we got bitten badly here and would skip next time]
outside Wãnaka [1 night]
Mount Cook [1 night, would have liked 2]
Queenstown [1 night]
Milford Sound [1 night]
Queenstown [1 night]
Arthurs Pass
There are two ways across the mountains from Christchurch to Greymouth on the West Coast. We chose the most direct; Arthurs Pass for its dramatic scenery. We drove part of the other pass from our base on the West Coast.
Our first stop is the highly recommended Darfield bakery for a picnic lunch. Loaded up with pies (a staple food in NZ) we headed onwards.
Castle Rocks. An easy pull in off the main road, these rocks are well worth stretching your legs for. An easy and well laid path takes up you up and around the rocks. Find a spot for your picnic and enjoy the view. There are ‘long drop’ toilets at the car park.
Bridal Veil falls: We didn’t get to stop here as we were running late, but would definitely do so if we had the chance. A slightly longer walk, but worth it.
Greymouth: A good place to stock up on supplies and fuel, if like us, you are renting a house, as grocery stores are hard to come by.
Add these to your route
Punakaki
A perfect place to start your road trip, with plenty to do when you arrive. We rented a house set deep in the rain forest just five minutes drive from the famous pancake rocks.
Things to do
Visit the rocks: Especially at high tide, when the ‘blow hole’ is at its most impressive, and sunset to watch the sun sink into the horizon. There is plenty of parking, and the paths are well made for the easy (10 minutes) walk from the main highway.
Go to the beach: Punakaki beach is a white sand beach that is exposed to the onshore breezes. It has glorious views of the rocky formations and the waves roll in constantly. Either head to Punakai village, or park at the Truman Track trail and take the path that heads west for a more secluded beach.
Go for a walk: This is a walkers paradise with tracks suitable for everyone.
Take a drive: Do not miss out on this one – head North up the coast to Westport, this section of road is outstanding, better than the Big Sur coast in California, with stunning views and challenging roads. Stop in Westport, a frontier town, or head further inland up the Buller Gorge to Murchinson for lunch. Return the same way, the views are equally stunning, or take a longer loop by Greymouth.
Go to the caves: This is the one that we missed out on. If you have the time, make a visit to these
Where to Stay
Nearest grocery stores: Greymouth or Westport, about 40 minutes in each direction.
Glaciers
Head south towards the glaciers and the road becomes straighter and flatter the further you go across the plains. We stopped in Hari Hari for lunch at a great cafe.
As you leave Hari Hari the road elevates back into the mountains and becomes twisty as you head towards the Glacier towns.
These are two towns thirty minutes apart; Franz Joseph and Fox Glacier. Both are tourist towns full of hotels, bars, restaurants and activity companies keen to persuade you into a helicopter, 4*4, or boat.
Both towns offer easy walks to see the glacier moraine. You can’t get up close, but you can see it at a distance.
If you are lucky and the weather is clear you should get a great view of the mountains, and the higher glaciers from the town. If not, believe me, it is behind that cloud.
We stayed at Franz Joseph in a own tree house set in a rainforest resort. We arrived in bright sunshine, which quickly turned to the rain which feeds the rainforest. We stayed two nights, and the rain did not let up, it became torrential, until we packed the car to leave.
The West Coast is known for its rain, in Milford Sound it rains 220 days a year, so it is worth expecting a shower, or two.
Where to stay
There are plenty of places to stay in both Franz Joseph and Fox Glacier, and some of the settlements on either side.
Rainforest Retreat: Something for everyone from backpackers up to 5* lodges set into the rainforest. We rented a lodge, on stilts with a view of the glacier. Web
Things to know
This is a place full of the local biting flies. And believe us when we say they bite.
There are no mosquito nets or protectors on the window, but they find their way in somehow. We were there in January and were bitten like crazy, with bites that were itchy as hell and lasted about a week. We used bite spray - but they still got us.
Everyone we spoke to who had been in the area had been bitten badly. so much so, we would skip these, other than a day visit next time. The rainforest in the north is just as impressive, and less prone to the bitey beasties.
Haast Valley
Heading south into the Haast valley, the road twists through the mountains through rain forest and along the beach, before heading inland.
Take a moment to stop at Bruce Bay, the roaring waves, over the white sand and sea smoothed logs makes for some fantastic photographs.
We stopped in Haast Village for lunch, at one of the small cafe’s popular with backpackers.
Shortly after Haast, stop to visit the Thunder Creek Falls. A short walk to a photogenic waterfall, which is best after it has rained. You can get down to the river level for some great shots.
Carry on for another 15 minutes and stop for the walk to the Blue Pools, a slightly longer walk, but a great way to stretch your legs.
Wãnaka
The lakeside town of Wãnaka feels like a town on the south of France with restaurants along the lake front. There is a wide range of accommodation and it is a short hop, over the hill, from here to Queenstown.
If you are here, you have to take a picture of #thatwanakatree. A willow tree that is growing in the lake. It is to the South of the lakefront, just past the watersports centre. Visit at sunset and hope for a low wind day for the best reflections.
There will be plenty of crowds there, but enough shoreline for everyone.
As you leave Wãnaka, make sure you stop at the Pembroke Patisserie on the left in Albert Town, perfect for a coffee, breakfast or a picnic lunch.
Lindis Pass
The main pass northwards towards Mount Cook reminds us of Austria, with sweeping curves through the valleys and over the hills. The scenery is stunning.
If you feel like stopping along the way, the Musterers Hut in Twizel is highly recommended.
There is two stunning viewpoints of the [insert name] lake and Mount Cook on the main road into Lake Tepaco, just after the Mount Cook turn. The first is on the other side of a dam, and has a big parking area, the other is a short distance on the left, and is higher up the hill, for a different perspective. On a clear day you are going to want to stop at both, especially if the water is still and the reflections are strong.
Lake Tepaco
Well worth a brief stop for pictures and lunch. The Church of the Good Shepard is a popular spot. In the spring it has a (really small) lupin field nearby. It is popular though, with those getting a picture for the ‘gram and it is unlikely that you will get a clear shot up close unless you are out of hours.
For a better shot, head back over the bridge and take a right into the parking. Park near the pedestrian bridge. If you stand on the hill across the river from the church you can frame it beautifully and the people disappear into the distance.
There are some great sculptures on the lake shore for even more great shots.
The Greedy Cow is popular for lunch, for all the right reasons. If it is busy you might have a short wait, but there are plenty of tables.
Mount Cook
A highlight of the trip. On a clear day you can see the mountain in the distance as you approach the turn from Lake Tepaco, and drive along the impossibly blue lake, a by-product of the glacial dust. Towards the end the road bends West to Mount Cook village and stunning views of Mount Seddon.
There are limited options once you reach the village, we stayed at the Hermitage, which is well worth the splurge, especially for a premium room on a higher floor. Each has a stunning view of the mountains, especially if the clouds clear, and at sunset/sunrise.
Stay for two nights, as you cannot be sure of the weather. We stayed for one, which meant we hiked the day we arrived and were lucky with a sunny and long evening.
Things to do
Walking: We hiked the Hooker Valley track, a well set up path which takes about 1.5 hours each way and passes over three swing bridges. With an elevation of just 120-150m, this is a popular walk ending at a glacier lake with stunning views of Mount Cook. There are benches and viewpoints along the way.
Dark Sky: This is one of the few places in the world where you can see the sky on a clear night. Take one of the walks leaving after dark and see the stars and the milky way.
Queenstown
The gateway to the South. The town hugs the steep hillsides running down to the lake. With plenty of extreme activities it is full of those who love the outdoors; hiking, mountain biking, skiing, bungy jumping and sky diving.
Unlike Wãnaka, which feels chilled, Queenstown feels like a party, with many restaurants and bars open until after midnight. They are a short 30 minute drive apart, across the hills.
You can’t visit Queenstown without visiting the institution that is Fergburger, open to 2am each day. Expect to queue for up to 40 mins even at 9pm.
If you wonder whether it is worth it, it is. The popularity has spun off to a baker (for your pies), open until midnight, and a Gelato shop, open until 10pm.
Te Anau
Half way from Queenstown to Milford, this is a great place to break a journey. Avoid your GPS, which cuts a corner off and head into the town. There are plenty of eateries, one of the most popular is the Sandfly café.
If you want to break the journey and maximise the opportunity to see some of the stunning countryside, this may be a good place to overnight.
Milford Sound
Another highlight, one we were looking forward to.
It is well worth planning the time for a trip to Fjordland, and Milford Sound is one of the few accessible parts. The drive is stunning, along lakes, over mountain passes, one of the longest road tunnels in NZ and along rivers.
There is a natural flow of day visitors from Queenstown, arriving in buses around lunchtime, then leaving early afternoon for the return trip. If you do not feel like making the four hour round trip, these are great.
We chose different; to cruise Milford Sound overnight. Of the two boats with permission to cruise overnight, mooring up in the shallower bays by the river, we chose the smaller, more luxury one; run by Fjiordland Discovery.
With just nine cabins, and a crew focused on your enjoyment, including a master chef, this is another splurge. The team anticipates your needs, handing you a fresh towel as you finish your swim in the fjord. This is service at its best, casual, but on point.
Boarding mid-afternoon, we cruised for a few hours to watch seals, and visit waterfalls
Heading for a secluded part of the bay, where it is shallow enough to anchor we moor for the night in the entrance to the river to kayak and swim before a gourmet dinner.
Early in the morning, you will wake up to the sights of the sound. In our case, a heavy overnight storm had left moody skies and waterfalls, lots of waterfalls.
Ahead of the day crowds you have the Sound to yourself for stunning photographs before you enjoy a fantastic breakfast. This is the benefit of staying overnight.
Back at base you can take your time heading back, enjoying the many stop-off points for great pictures.
Stop for coffee at The Coffee Bomb, based out of an airstream in Garston and enjoy some peace and quite before you head back to the busyness of Queenstown
All links working at the time of writing in May 2024
